600,800,1000 depedning on the mistake.ħ) Do not sand metallic (unless a mistake is made). *If you make a mistake during the clear coating or with a transparent finishing process sand with a higher grit sandpaper to avoid scratches being seen in the clear. It doesn't have to be 24 hours, 1 hour is plenty. These lacquers tend to run easily, and blush more due to their over thinned properties.Ħ) If you have a run or sag, STOP! Let dry and sand out with 400 grit. Unlike other lacquers which are thinned down considerably. Our lacquers and toners are mixed to the perfect spraying consistency allowing you to have all of the control over your finish. Overlap as much as possible usually 50% is enough. *Essentially, you want your part to look like a fresh sheet of ice or a glassy lake for a perfect coat of lacquer.ĥ) Spray approx 8-12 inches away from your guitar or neck. Too little or to far away from your guitar body can result in orange peel or an "over spray" effect (a rough surface caused by lacquer drying before it hits your guitar). This is ideal conditions and warming your lacquer isn't 100% necessary.Ĥ) Spray enough lacquer, but not too much. Your lacquer and parts should be the exact sample temperature. If your shop, Garage etc is a temperature controled environment. This step makes sure the lacquer flows out like it is supposed to. Warm your can a few minutes before spraying for best flow. Large builders use heated lacquer, but you can use hot tap water. An increase in humidity can cause blushing.ģ) Spray warm lacquer. Try not to spray much over 60% humidity to be safe. Humidity being the most important factor. A couple of quick "guidelines",ġ) Make sure your work area is always clean and dryĢ) Spray when conditions permit. That being said, many manufacturers have their own way of using/changing these rules and it all works. Spraying Nitrocellulose lacquer has a few rules (guidelines). We will answer all of your questions to the best of our ability. Or read the back of the product, look up the SDS or product information sheets. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to email the shop. Always wear a respirator and safety glasses. Nitrocellulose only has one real downside. Oil finishes are nice, but a custom colour oil finish? No way. Poly finishes are very thick, weigh a ton, and when they do chip or crack it looks terrible. It is light and thin and lets the instrument resonate and vibrate more freely than any other protective finish. It provides a durable finish while aging with the player. It has been used in the finishing of musical instruments for over 100 years. It is all top manufacturers most expensive/ top of the line finishes. Nitrocellulose is a highly sought after finish for a reason. Many mistakes have been made and fixed within 1 coat. Nitrocellulose is historically a very forgiving finish. This may be why you see other companies popping up offering it as well as other "nitro type products" that are similar to our colours and the original custom colours Unless you mixed your own colours like us you were SOL.That contract is now over. There was a contract between a large supply company in Canada and the manufacturer that spanned some 30 years for distribution rights. You never saw the stuff available for purchase for basically one reason. We've sprayed our colours for years perfecting them with our private instrument/lacquer business. It is also a myth that nitrocellulose lacquer is or was illegal in Canada. Well before the "1-2 month secret" myth cure time. They sand and polish ranging from 6-8 days. They aren't chemically altered, catalyzed or changed to cure faster. *Greekīig builders like Gibson and Fender spray the same nitrocellulose lacquers you can buy here. It's also why a nitrocellulose finish wears differently (faster) than a poly finish.Īnyone who says nitro needs months to cure should learn their chemistry. This is why you can sand through a finish or burn through a finish during the process. So, it hardens as it flashes off and "cures" and hardens(again) as it cools after polishing. Meaning it softens as it's polished due to the heat caused by friction and hardens as it cools. It is a myth that nitro "needs" months to cure before sanding and polishing. And making it over 100 years old in the instrument business. It is a fast-drying solvent that provides a durable finish and is easy to work with. In the early 1920’s nitrocellulose lacquer became the preferred finish on high-quality furniture and musical instruments. His invention was a contest entry to find a new material to make billiard balls. It was composed of cellulose treated with nitric acid and a solvent.Ĭelluloid was developed in 1869 by John Wesley Hyatt when he created a material called camphor nitrocellulose, the first "thermoplastic". Nitrocellulose was the first documented man made "plastic", and was created in 1862.
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